Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
